(NOTE: If you have never run the command su before, your Fire TV will display a popup asking for you to grant permission. For example: adb push C:\Downloads\Vendor_054c_Product_05c4.kl /sdcard/ ) (NOTE: Replace with the path to the file you download on your computer. If your DualShock 4 has already been paired with your Fire TV, go to Settings > CONTROLLERS and unpair it.Īdb push \Vendor_054c_Product_05c4.kl /sdcard/.Download (right-click and select save as…) the custom keylayout file: Vendor_054c_Product_05c4.kl. The SFX-040 that was made for the JDM-040 version (above) will also work on the -050 and -055 versions here if you’re not wanting to risk it.In order to install the custom key layout file, your Fire TV must be rooted. NOTE: Be aware though, if the via is ruined in the process, repairing the controller will be extremely difficult if not impossible. Any ground spot can be used for the common connection. JDM-050 shown here, but the JDM-055 spots are in the identical locations, even though the board is slightly different. Vias locations for the X, O, /\ and buttons. The Cross, Circle and Triangle buttons have them for sure, but you’ll only get 1 shot at them, and if you’re not up for that small work, I designed the SFX-040, so no soldering is required on the controller PCB at all.ĭM-055 (1-982-707-11, 1-982-707-22, 1-982-707-31, 1-982-707-32, 1-982-707-81) When my other board arrives, I’ll remove the ARM to see if there is a via for Square button. The Daughter board has gone back to a single piece design (not interchangeable with older versions) and it connects around the top left of the board versus the middle. Latest DS4 version board for the Slim console (mid September 2016) Again with a change made to the shell and the Daughter board layout. The core way of how the controller works hasn’t changed though. The Daughter board has been split into a 2 piece design now and connects on the sides of the mother board versus the middle as every previous version has. New DS4 version board (mid/late July 2015) This thing has had a pretty decent change made to the shell and the Daughter board layout. The X and /\ buttons can be found on the bottom of the PCB, but O and are top only. NOTE: Because the JDM-020 uses blind vias, I’ll need to have one of these to tear down and see about the best spots for duplicate buttons and such. They seem to have ditched the Fujitsu ARM for a Freescale one and finally started to use blind vias. The shell has also been changed for the smaller PCB, so a 1:1 swap can’t be done without some modification to this version shell if installing one of the older wider boards. The USB/LED board (not pictured yet) is redone so there are 2 less wires on the connector. It’s a little smaller width wise and has some things moved around, but is pretty much the same thing. The L2 and R2 are PWM and should connect to the 2L and 2R spots respectively if they are to be duplicated. The L1 and R1 are Active Hi, and have to be connected to the 3.2v line to activate. Connecting them to any Ground spot will make them work. The D-pad, Cross, Circle, Square and Triangle buttons are active Lo. NOTES on button layout, applies to all versions so far. Vias for the buttons of the JDM-001 (NOTE: The PCB is the Blue version here, but the Blue and the Green boards are identical in this respect)
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